How to Make Your Own Try Plane
You can build your own try plane from bubinga (also called African rosewood), although any durable hardwood will fit the bill. You will need a piece 600mm x 75mm x 62mm for the centre block, as well as two cheeks measuring 600mm x 75mm x 8mm. Read starting at Step 1 to find out how to create your own try plane.
Rough cutting the plane's body
Rip the timber down to size on your band saw.
- The main (centre) block is 600mm x 75mm x 62mm.
These are the finished dimensions you want to end up with.
- You will also need to rip two side blocks (cheeks).
Each should have 600mm x 75mm x 8mm finished dimensions.
- The main (centre) block is 600mm x 75mm x 62mm.
Plane all the pieces flat and true with a jointer plane.Square the edges.
Set aside the cheeks and start laying out lines for cutting the centre block into two pieces - the bed block and the toe block.
- Choose one face to be the sole and measure back 200mm from the toe.
- Scribe a line straight across the sole at this distance.
This will be the location of the mouth which houses the cutting plate and collects the shavings.
- Mark up each side of the centre block at an angle of 50°.
These lines start at the scribed line and angle back toward the heel of the centre block and, when cut, will form the bed for the cutting plate.
- Draw a second line on each side starting 4mm forward of the scribed line, but angled at 60° in the same direction as the other layout lines.
This will be the abutment for the wedge (which allows depth adjustment and secures the cutting plate).
Make two cuts along the marked angles using the table saw and its mitre gauge.
- (Discard the resulting wedge.)
- The larger section is the bed block (with the 50° ramp).
- The smaller piece is the toe block.
Clean up the bed with a sharp block plane and ensure that it is perfectly flat.
Make a small chamfer (bevel) on the leading edge of the bed block to prevent it from chipping , then set the bed block aside.
Lay out the throat on the toe block (front block).
- Scribe a line straight across the top face of the block 170mm back from the front edge.
- From this line, mark the sides of the block at 65° angled toward the heel of the toe block.
- Again, on the sides of the block, strike two more lines.
- Start from a point 3mm above the sole and located on the 65° line you just laid out.
- Extend a lineupwards, this time at a 75° angle (toward the toe of the toe block).
- The laid out area defines the throat opening and the throat walls will be 8mm inside the cheeks as described in the next sub-step.
Lay out the wedge abutment on the toe block (front block).
- Using a marking gauge set at 8mm, mark down the front edges and the top face of the toe block on both sides. These lines delineate the sides of the throat area. A portion of the 8mm stock on the toe block will be removed to act as a wedge abutment (to hold the wedge firmly in place against the iron).
- On the top face, draw a line diagonally from the front edge (8mm out) back to the front of the throat. At the point where the two angles meet on the side of the throat, mark this height along the front. Make a diagonal line from this height out to the sides of the block, stopping 3mm up.
Cut the throat.
- Clamp the toe block in a vice.
- Cut to the waste side of the layout lines using a tenon saw.
- Make additional cuts to make it easier to chop out the waste.
- Remove the material between the lines using a chisel and mallet.
- Cut the top section of the throat first, then re-position the block in the vice and saw and chop out the lower section.
- With the waste material removed, use a paring chisel to clean up the surfaces.
- That completes the cheeks and centre blocks.
They are ready for gluing up.
Gluing up the plane's body
Make the iron plate, as you will need it to check the opening of the mouth.This one needs to be 58mm wide by 190mm tall cut from 3mm thick tool steel.
Position the front block so the iron won’t protrude through the mouth when you glue up the pieces.Leave it so the iron touches the front about 1mm up inside the throat, then start gluing up the cheeks and centre blocks.
- Apply glue to the sides of the centre blocks and sandwich them between the cheeks.
- Make sure the gap for the mouth is correct and start applying clamps.
- As you apply clamping pressure, the pieces may move around, so a gentle tap to re-align the pieces may be needed.
- Use plenty of clamps in the glue-up, particularly in the throat area.
- Leave they assembly overnight to cure.
Remove the clamps from the plane and scrape off any glue squeeze out.
- Make sure to remove any glue on the bed and abutments, otherwise it will interfere with the fit of the iron plate and the wedge.
Draw a line on the top of the plane from the front edge of the abutments to the back of the throat where the cheeks touch the centre blocks.
Remove this material using a rasp and tidy it up with a chisel. This refinement makes it easier to remove shavings from the throat.
Shaping the plane's body
Layout a line from the toe 30mm above the sole to the throat using a large French curve.
Cut along this line and remove the waste using the bandsaw.
- Clean up the worst of the saw marks with a belt sander, then
- bring the surfaces to a finished condition with a cabinet scraper.
Fabricating and fitting the wedge
Cut a wedge on the bandsaw from an off-cut of timber to a width of 60mm and an angle of 10°.Clean up the saw marks with a block plane, and shape the wedge on a disc sander.
Test-fit the wedge with the iron in place, and check where it beds against the abutments.
- It must fit snugly against both sides simultaneously.
- Mark the abutments with a pencil to see where the wedge fits and where it doesn’t.
- Cut back the ears as necessary.
- Shape the top edges and cut a chamfer (bevel) on them after the wedge is fitted.
- Check to see if the iron will project through the mouth. (Probably not.)
- Clamp the plane upside down in the vice and, using a small mill file, remove small amounts from the front edge of the mouth.
- Test the iron again and continue removing small amounts with the file until the iron just peeks though the mouth.
- Refit the wedge and make a test cut. You may need to open the mouth a little more to allow the plane to cut without the shavings choking in the mouth.
Making the tote
Sketch out your design and remove the waste using drills and the band saw.
Shape the handle to a comfortable fit, testing it with your hand.Use rasps and sandpaper to complete the smoothing.
Mark out the mortise on the rear of the plane.
- Make sure the iron won’t foul on the tote when you try to remove it.
- Drill out the waste and then chop and pare the mortise to a snug fit.
- Glue the tote in place.
Mark out the final chamfers along the sides of the plane and cut them using a spokeshave.The chamfer on the front end of the plane will need to be finished with a chisel.
Sand the plane and apply the finish.
- Sand the plane body lightly with 320 grit paper.
- Coat plane and wedge with boiled linseed oil.
- Repeat and remove excess after ten minutes.
- Leave to dry overnight.
- Rub a coat of paste wax onto the plane (avoiding the bed and abutments), then buff it off.
Turn a small rosewood knob 25mm in diameter by 50mm deep on the lathe.
- Use offcut stock.
- This serves as a place to rest your thumb while you are planing and also as a place to strike when you want to remove the iron.
- Drill a 25mm hole 25mm deep in the front of the plane, 110mm back of the toe
- Glue the knob in place, and the plane body is finished.
Fitting the iron
Sharpen the iron and set it in place.Fit the wedge and set the iron projection for a fine shaving – the iron should barely protrude from the mouth.
Take a test cut; does it give a full-width shaving?If it doesn’t, make sure the iron is projecting squarely. If you find the plane won’t consistently take a very fine shaving, you may need to flatten the sole.
- Stick a sheet of 120-grit abrasive paper on a flat surface and, with the plane iron retracted but the wedge fully tightened, give the plane a firm push over the sandpaper.
- Take a look at the sole to see where wood has been removed. Give the plane another stroke or two to ensure that any bumps have been removed, and test the plane again.
- Finally, you may need to open up the mouth a little if you find that it’s choking when you try to take a thicker shaving.
- Make sure the guides which hold the blade are smooth and fit correctly so the blade remains tight and square during use.
- The base, orsoleof the plane must be very smooth and perfectly flat for the plane to work correctly.
- If you make a mistake with a cut, discard the piece and cut a new one, rather than spending hours adjusting the fit of the various pieces.
- Use care with the tools including the band saw and other cutting tools.
Video: How to Make a Wooden Hand Plane
Is Retin-A the Secret to Youthful Skin
How to Be Safe and Smart on the Internet
6 Slimmed-Down Sandwiches Youll Crave
How to Choose Between Winter Squashes
The Complete Guide To Summer Fragrances
Chanel Nuit Infinie de Chanel Holiday 2013 Makeup Collection
How to Cope with Stress in a Monologue Audition
How to Wear Fall’s Jewel-Tone EyeColors
How to Deal With Bad News
Why You Shouldn’t Copy Ashley Graham’s Self-Tanner WindexHack
How to Sleep Better when You Have Psoriasis
15 Spring Wedding Guest Dresses Because Nuptial Season Is Around the Corner
7Ways toTreat and Prevent Heartburn Without Seeing ADoctor